Sendai is the largest city in the Tohoku region. There is no other city in the Tohoku region that can compare to Sendai, and it can be said that the city is unipolar. It takes only 80 minutes from Tokyo Station by the Tohoku Shinkansen bullet train. Although Sendai is a city, it has a different atmosphere from Tokyo. Sendai, also known as the “City of Trees,” is a city rich in nature. In this article, I will introduce Sendai, its places to visit, foods to eat, events to attend, and souvenirs to buy.
Sendai and Date Family
The Date family, a prominent samurai clan, originated in the late Heian period and took its name from the Date District in present-day Fukushima Prefecture. They rose to prominence during the Sengoku period, with Date Masamune (1567–1636) as their most famous leader. Masamune, known as the “One-Eyed Dragon,” expanded the clan’s territory and pledged loyalty to Tokugawa Ieyasu, receiving the prosperous Sendai Domain in return. In 1601, he founded Sendai, designing it as a castle town centered around Sendai Castle (Aoba Castle). Under his leadership, Sendai flourished as a cultural and economic hub, fostering education, the arts, and trade. Masamune also showed openness to Western influences, briefly allowing Christian missionaries in his domain. After the Meiji Restoration in 1868, the Date family lost political power, but their legacy remains in Sendai. Notable landmarks include the Sendai Castle ruins, Zuihōden Mausoleum, and Osaki Hachiman Shrine. Sendai grew into a major Japanese city, its history deeply shaped by the Date family. Date Masamune’s leadership and vision continue to be celebrated as part of Sendai’s identity.
Lu Xun and Sendai
Lu Xun was the first foreign student to enroll in a government-run educational institution in Sendai. After graduating from Kobun Gakuin, an educational institution for foreign students in Tokyo, he decided to study medicine and entered Sendai Medical College, the predecessor of Tohoku University School of Medicine, in 1904. Based on his experience in Tokyo, Lu Xun wished to distance himself from the foreign student community and chose Sendai, where none of the foreign students were.
As a result, Lu Xun decided to become a literary scholar during his second year of school and left the medical school. Although his time in Sendai was short, lasting only a year and a half, I hope that you will actually experience the place that served as a turning point in his pursuit of literature.
Places to visit
The above-mentioned places related to the Date family are, of course, the places to visit in Sendai. Sendai Castle Ruins, Zuihouden, Osaki Hachimangu Shrine, etc. Other places are also worth a visit.
Sendai Morning Market
About 70 stores are located within a 5-minute walk from Sendai Station, and they are crammed with seasonal fish, fresh vegetables, fruits, and other goods. With fresh and inexpensive fresh food available, the market is loved by many visitors as “Sendai’s kitchen”.
Akiu Onsen
Akiu Onsen is a famous hot spring resort located about 30 minutes from Sendai. Known as one of Japan’s top three imperial hot springs, it has been celebrated for over 1,500 years for its healing waters, rich in minerals that promote relaxation and skin health. Visitors can enjoy luxurious ryokan (traditional inns), public baths, and day-use hot spring facilities surrounded by the scenic beauty of the Natori River and nearby attractions like the Akiu Great Falls and Rairaikyo Gorge. The area combines natural tranquility with cultural experiences, making it a popular getaway for locals and tourists alike.
Must-eat in Sendai
Gyutan
Gyutan (grilled beef tongue) is popular in Sendai because it originated there and has become a regional specialty. The dish was first introduced in 1948 by a local restaurant owner grilled thinly sliced beef tongue and served it with simple seasonings.
Gyutan’s popularity grew due to its tender texture, smoky flavor, and nutritious qualities. It is typically served with rice cooked with barley (mugimeshi), tail soup, and pickled vegetables. Over the decades, gyutan became synonymous with Sendai’s food culture, attracting visitors eager to try this unique and flavorful dish. Today, many restaurants in Sendai specialize in gyutan, making it a must-try for tourists.
Zunda Shake
The Zunda Shake is a popular sweet drink from Sendai, made with zunda, a paste of sweetened, mashed edamame (young soybeans). It is a creamy blend of vanilla-flavored milkshake and zunda, resulting in a unique mix of sweetness and a nutty, earthy flavor from the edamame.
Zunda is a traditional delicacy in the Tohoku region, often used in desserts like mochi (rice cakes), and the Zunda Shake represents a modern twist on this classic flavor. Visitors to Sendai often seek out this iconic drink, which is now considered a must-try item when exploring the region. It’s widely available at Zunda Saryo, a chain of specialty stores in Sendai.
Sasakama
Sasakama is a must-try in Sendai, as it’s one of the region’s iconic specialties. Made from fresh fish and shaped like bamboo leaves, it’s lightly grilled for a savory, tender flavor. You’ll find it at specialty shops, Sendai Station, and local markets, often with options to grill it yourself. It’s a delicious way to experience Sendai’s culinary culture and makes a great souvenir.
Summer and Winter events in Sendai
Sendai Tanabata Festival
The Sendai Tanabata Festival, held annually from August 6th to 8th, is one of Japan’s most famous Tanabata celebrations, honoring the star-crossed lovers Orihime and Hikoboshi. The city is decorated with thousands of vibrant, handmade streamers hung in shopping arcades, symbolizing wishes and creativity. Festivities include traditional performances, parades, and a fireworks display on August 5th to kick off the event. People also write wishes on tanzaku (paper strips) and hang them on bamboo branches, following the Tanabata tradition. Dating back to the Edo period, the festival was popularized under Date Masamune and remains a symbol of Sendai’s culture and resilience. It attracts millions of visitors annually, celebrating tradition and community spirit.
Sendai Pageant of Starlight
The Sendai Pageant of Starlight is a dazzling winter illumination event held annually in December in Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture. Thousands of LED lights decorate the zelkova trees lining Jozenji-dori Avenue, creating a magical, tunnel-like canopy of warm, glowing lights.
First held in 1986, the event symbolizes hope and recovery, particularly after the 2011 Tohoku earthquake and tsunami. Key highlights include light shows synchronized with music, food stalls, and occasional visits from Santa Claus. The event draws both locals and tourists, offering a festive atmosphere perfect for strolling and taking photos. It has become one of Sendai’s most beloved winter traditions, celebrating the holiday season with warmth and light.
Souvenir to buy
Hagi no Tsuki
Hagi no Tsuki is a famous confection from Sendai. It is a soft sponge cake filled with creamy custard, designed to resemble the gentle glow of the moon over the hagi (bush clover) plants for which the region is known. Created by Kashosanzen, a local confectionery company, it has become a beloved souvenir and symbol of Sendai’s sweets culture. The delicate texture of the cake combined with the rich custard filling makes it a popular treat for locals and visitors alike.
Kikufuku
Kikufuku is a well-known sweet from Sendai, created by the confectionery brand Kikusuian. It is a delightful mochi (rice cake) filled with a combination of whipped cream and sweet red bean paste or other flavored fillings, such as zunda (sweet edamame paste) or matcha (green tea). The soft and chewy mochi exterior contrasts perfectly with the creamy and sweet interior, making it a unique and satisfying dessert. Kikufuku has become a popular souvenir from Sendai, loved for its innovative blend of traditional and modern flavors.
Take note of this!
There is a bus service for tourists called “Loople Sendai” that runs through the city of Sendai. It is a circular bus, and it is easy to get on it and it will take you to tourist spots. However, the buses are extremely crowded, either because there is too much space between runs or because there are too many tourists (or both). I have been on several buses that were more crowded than the packed trains in Tokyo. Since then, I have avoided this bus. I recommend that you take a local bus or a cab if possible. If you have no choice but to take it, be prepared.
Sendai and I
Sendai is a city that makes me feel strangely at home. I was born and raised in Tokyo, and I like cities, so if I were to move to a city, I would prefer a city. If I had to choose one of them, I would choose Sendai. It is urban, but its location near hot springs, the sea, and mountains is great. It is a city with a deep history and unique culture. It is my second hometown, which I visit several times a year because of its easy accessibility and the fact that I have friends living there.