Have you ever heard of the Shinsengumi, the famous group of swordsmen who served the Tokugawa shogunate during the final years of the Edo period?
If you have watched Japanese historical dramas, anime, or played games set in the Bakumatsu period, you may already recognize names such as Kondo Isami, Hijikata Toshizo, and Okita Soji.
But the Shinsengumi were not just fictional characters. They were a real group that played a role in the turbulent final years of the Tokugawa shogunate.
I have been fascinated by the Shinsengumi ever since I first learned about them. That interest eventually led me to make my own Shinsengumi pilgrimage, visiting places connected with their lives and deaths across Japan.
In this article, I’ll introduce the Shinsengumi’s history, some of their most famous members, and the places you can visit today if you want to follow their story.
Who Were the Shinsengumi?
The Shinsengumi were a group of swordsmen who were active mainly in Kyoto during the 1860s, when Japan was going through enormous political and social changes.
They are often described as samurai, but the reality is more complicated.
Some members came from samurai families, while others did not. Kondo Isami, one of the group’s central figures, was born in the Tama area of present-day Tokyo and trained in swordsmanship at the Tennen Rishin-ryu school.
Hijikata Toshizo, who later became the Shinsengumi’s famous vice-commander, also came from the Tama area and was born into a farming family.
So how did people from such backgrounds end up becoming famous swordsmen in Kyoto?
From the Roshigumi to the Shinsengumi
In 1863, the Tokugawa shogunate recruited a group of masterless swordsmen known as the Roshigumi to travel to Kyoto and protect the shogun during his visit.
Kondo Isami, Hijikata Toshizo, and several other men who would later form the core of the Shinsengumi joined this group.
However, not everyone returned to Edo.
Kondo and his followers remained in Kyoto, where they became part of a group known as the Mibu Roshigumi.
They eventually came under the authority of Matsudaira Katamori, the lord of the Aizu domain and Kyoto Protector.
The group later became known as the Shinsengumi.
Their job was essentially to help maintain order in Kyoto at a time when political violence and conflict were becoming increasingly common.
What Did the Shinsengumi Do?
The Shinsengumi were responsible for policing and security in Kyoto.
They were famous for their strict discipline and their distinctive appearance: swords, traditional clothing, and the light-blue-and-white uniforms often associated with them today.
The group also had its own strict set of rules, known as the Kyokuchu Hatto.
The rules demanded absolute loyalty and discipline. Breaking them could result in severe punishment, including seppuku.
The Shinsengumi also became involved in political violence and internal conflicts, making them a feared presence in Kyoto.
The Ikedaya Incident
The event that made the Shinsengumi particularly famous was the Ikedaya Incident of 1864.
The Shinsengumi discovered anti-shogunate activists staying at the Ikedaya Inn in Kyoto and launched an attack.
The confrontation became one of the best-known incidents of the Bakumatsu period.
After the incident, the Shinsengumi’s reputation grew dramatically.
Today, the original Ikedaya Inn is gone, but a monument marks the location, making it one of the places history fans can visit in Kyoto.
Famous Members of the Shinsengumi
The Shinsengumi had many members, but a few names appear again and again in Japanese history, literature, manga, anime, and games.
Kondo Isami
Kondo Isami was the commander of the Shinsengumi.
Born in the Tama area of present-day Tokyo, he studied swordsmanship before eventually becoming one of the group’s most important leaders.
His life ended tragically after the Shinsengumi’s defeat during the Boshin War.
Today, places connected with Kondo can be found in several parts of Japan.
Hijikata Toshizo
If there is one Shinsengumi member who has become especially famous in modern popular culture, it is probably Hijikata Toshizo.
Known as the Shinsengumi’s vice-commander, Hijikata was famous for his strict discipline and determination.
He continued fighting even after the Shinsengumi lost control of Kyoto.
His final battlefield was Hakodate in Hokkaido, where he fought for the former Tokugawa government during the final stages of the Boshin War.
Hijikata was killed in battle in 1869.
Today, you can visit many places associated with him in Hino, Tokyo, as well as Kyoto and Hakodate.
Okita Soji
Okita Soji was one of the Shinsengumi’s best-known swordsmen and served as the captain of the First Unit.
He has become an especially popular character in novels, manga, anime, and games.
Because many details about his personal life have been mixed with later stories and fictional portrayals, it is worth remembering that the historical Okita and the fictional versions of him are not always the same person.
Saito Hajime
Saito Hajime was the captain of the Third Unit.
Unlike some Shinsengumi members, Saito survived the turbulent period and went on to live during the Meiji era.
His later life is another reminder that the Shinsengumi story did not end with the group’s defeat.
Why Did the Shinsengumi Disappear?
The Shinsengumi existed during a period when Japan’s entire political system was changing.
The Tokugawa shogunate was losing power, while movements supporting the restoration of imperial rule were becoming increasingly influential.
In 1868, the Boshin War began.
The Shinsengumi fought on the side of the Tokugawa government and its allies.
After the shogunate’s forces were defeated in several battles, the Shinsengumi were forced to leave Kyoto.
Kondo Isami was eventually captured and executed.
Hijikata Toshizo continued fighting with the remaining Tokugawa forces.
He fought in places including Utsunomiya and Aizu, before eventually traveling to Hakodate in Hokkaido.
There, the former shogunate forces established the Republic of Ezo, although the new government did not survive.
Hijikata was killed in battle in May 1869.
The Shinsengumi had existed for only several years, but their story became deeply embedded in Japanese popular culture.
Why Are the Shinsengumi Still So Popular?
This is one of the things I find most fascinating about the Shinsengumi.
Their actual period of activity was relatively short, yet their story continues to appear in:
- Historical novels
- TV dramas
- Manga
- Anime
- Video games
- Movies
- Historical tourism
Part of their appeal comes from the dramatic period in which they lived.
They were caught between two eras:
The old world of the Tokugawa shogunate
and
the rapidly changing Japan that emerged during the Meiji Restoration.
Their stories also contain many elements that naturally attract storytellers: loyalty, friendship, betrayal, political conflict, swordsmanship, and tragic endings.
Of course, the modern image of the Shinsengumi has also been shaped by fiction.
If you become interested in them through anime, manga, or games, you may find that the historical figures were rather different from their fictional counterparts.
That is part of the fun of learning about them.
Where Can You Visit Shinsengumi Sites in Japan?
If you are interested in Japanese history, you don’t have to limit yourself to museums.
Many places connected with the Shinsengumi still exist today.
I have visited several of these places myself, and following their story across Japan can make for a fascinating history-focused trip.
1. Hino, Tokyo — Hijikata Toshizo’s Hometown
The Hino area of Tokyo is one of the best places to start if you are particularly interested in Hijikata Toshizo.
Hijikata was born here, and the area still has strong connections with his family and history.
You can visit places associated with his childhood and family, as well as historical materials related to the Shinsengumi.
Takahata Fudoson Kongoji Temple
Takahata Fudoson is another important Hijikata-related site.
A bronze statue of Hijikata stands on the temple grounds, and the temple has connections with his family.
If you are interested in Hijikata rather than just the Shinsengumi as a whole, Hino is definitely worth adding to your Tokyo itinerary.
2. Mibu, Kyoto — The Heart of the Early Shinsengumi Story
If you visit only one area related to the Shinsengumi, I would choose Mibu in Kyoto.
This is where the group spent its early years.
Yagi Residence
The Yagi Residence is one of the most important surviving Shinsengumi-related sites in Kyoto.
The Shinsengumi used the residence as one of their bases during their time in Mibu.
The house is especially interesting because historical traces connected with the Shinsengumi remain inside.
The Kyoto Prefecture Tourism Federation notes that the residence was used by the Shinsengumi and that sword marks remain on a beam from the period of the group’s internal conflicts.
The residence can be visited as part of a guided tour.
Mibu-dera Temple
Just a short walk away is Mibu-dera Temple.
The temple grounds were used by the Shinsengumi for activities including martial arts training.
Today, the temple’s Mibu-zuka area contains memorials connected with several Shinsengumi members, including a bust of Kondo Isami and the grave of Serizawa Kamo.
Even if you aren’t a serious history fan, the area is interesting because it gives you a sense of the neighborhood where the Shinsengumi actually lived and trained.
Former Maekawa Residence
The Former Maekawa Residence was another Shinsengumi base in Mibu.
The building itself is not generally open to the public, but it is another important location if you are following the group’s history through Kyoto.
3. Ikedaya Site, Kyoto
The Ikedaya Incident is one of the most famous events in Shinsengumi history.
The original inn no longer exists, but a monument marks the location.
If you’re already exploring central Kyoto, it’s easy to combine the site with other historical locations.
Don’t expect to see a preserved samurai-era building here, though.
The importance of the site is the history that happened there rather than the modern appearance of the location.
4. Aizuwakamatsu, Fukushima
The story of the Shinsengumi doesn’t end in Kyoto.
Their connection with Aizuwakamatsu is particularly important because the Aizu domain remained loyal to the Tokugawa shogunate during the Boshin War.
The Shinsengumi fought alongside the Aizu forces after leaving Kyoto.
If you are interested in the final years of the Tokugawa shogunate, I highly recommend combining a Shinsengumi trip with a visit to Aizuwakamatsu.
You can also learn about other famous stories from the Boshin War, including the Byakkotai.
For more information about Aizuwakamatsu and Fukushima, see my guide:
5. Goryokaku, Hakodate
The final major chapter of Hijikata Toshizo’s life took place in Hakodate, Hokkaido.
Today, you can visit Goryokaku, the famous star-shaped fortress where the final battles of the Boshin War took place.
Hijikata fought here with the remaining forces of the former shogunate and was killed in battle in 1869.
Goryokaku is now a peaceful park, which makes the contrast with its history particularly striking.
There is also a bronze statue of Hijikata in Goryokaku Park.
If you’re visiting Hakodate anyway, Goryokaku is one of the places I would definitely add to your itinerary.
Why Does Kondo Isami Have Five Graves?
This is where my own Shinsengumi pilgrimage became particularly interesting.
After Kondo Isami was executed, the location of his head became uncertain.
As a result, several memorials and graves associated with Kondo exist in different parts of Japan.
I actually visited all five sites.
It was not exactly the easiest pilgrimage because they are spread across several prefectures, but it was a fascinating way to follow Kondo’s story beyond Kyoto.
Here are the five sites traditionally associated with Kondo Isami:
1. Ryugenji Temple — Chofu, Tokyo
This is associated with Kondo’s hometown and his early life.
2. Itabashi — Tokyo
This is associated with the site where Kondo was executed.
A memorial connected with Kondo can be found near Itabashi Station.
3. Tenneiji Temple — Aizuwakamatsu, Fukushima
This site is associated with Kondo and the Aizu period of the Boshin War.
4. Koukokuji Temple — Yonezawa, Yamagata
Another memorial site associated with Kondo Isami.
5. Hozoji Temple — Okazaki, Aichi
This is traditionally associated with Kondo’s head.
Because the history surrounding Kondo’s remains is complicated, I recommend treating these as memorials and sites associated with Kondo rather than assuming that every site contains confirmed remains.
For me, though, that uncertainty is part of what makes the pilgrimage fascinating.
How to Plan a Shinsengumi Pilgrimage in Japan
You don’t need to visit every location to enjoy the Shinsengumi story.
In fact, I would recommend choosing your route based on how much time you have.
If you have one day
Kyoto
Focus on:
- Yagi Residence
- Mibu-dera Temple
- Former Maekawa Residence
- Ikedaya Site
This gives you a good introduction to the Shinsengumi’s Kyoto years.
If you have several days
Tokyo + Kyoto
Add:
- Hino
- Hijikata-related sites
- Mibu
- Ikedaya
This lets you learn about both the group’s origins and its activities in Kyoto.
If you are a serious history fan
Consider a longer route:
Tokyo → Kyoto → Aizuwakamatsu → Hakodate
This follows the story from the Shinsengumi’s roots and Kyoto years through the Boshin War and the final battle in Hokkaido.
It also gives you a chance to explore several different sides of late-Edo and early-Meiji Japan.
Check hotels in Japan on Trip.com →Kyoto/Tokyo/Aizuwakamatsu/Hakodate
A Few Tips Before Your Shinsengumi Trip
Learn the basic history first
I strongly recommend reading about the Shinsengumi before visiting the sites.
You don’t need to become a history expert.
Even knowing the basic stories of Kondo Isami, Hijikata Toshizo, Okita Soji, the Ikedaya Incident, and the Boshin War will make the locations much more meaningful.
Don’t expect everything to look old
Some Shinsengumi locations are preserved historical buildings.
Others are simply monuments, temples, streets, or modern buildings standing where something important once happened.
That’s normal.
Part of the experience is imagining what the area looked like in the 1860s.
Be careful with fictional portrayals
If you discovered the Shinsengumi through anime, manga, or games, enjoy them!
But remember that those versions often mix historical facts with fiction.
I actually think this makes the subject more interesting. You can enjoy the fictional characters and then discover what the historical people were really like.
Final Thoughts: Why I Love the Shinsengumi
The Shinsengumi existed for only a few years, but their story has survived for more than a century and a half.
What fascinates me most isn’t simply their swordsmanship or their dramatic battles.
It’s the fact that they lived at a moment when Japan was changing completely.
When you visit Mibu in Kyoto, Hino in Tokyo, Aizuwakamatsu, or Goryokaku in Hakodate, you’re not just visiting places connected with famous samurai.
You’re following the story of people who lived through one of the biggest turning points in Japanese history.
And if you’re anything like me, you may find yourself wanting to visit just one more Shinsengumi-related place.
That’s how a simple interest can turn into a full-blown Shinsengumi pilgrimage.
If you’re interested in Japanese history beyond the usual tourist attractions, I highly recommend adding these places to your Japan itinerary.