Bento and Ekiben
Bento is a uniquely Japanese food culture that is now well known around the world. One common type is the homemade bento, prepared at home and eaten at school or work for lunch. Another familiar sight is bento sold at convenience stores and specialty bento shops throughout Japan.
Ekiben is a special type of bento sold at train stations. The word comes from eki (station) and bento. Ekiben typically feature regional ingredients and seasonal dishes, offering travelers a delicious way to experience local food culture while on the move.
There are several theories about when ekiben first appeared, but it is generally believed they originated in the late 19th century, around the 1880s. Since then, ekiben have become an essential part of Japan’s railway travel experience.
Train Etiquette: Eating and Drinking on Trains
In Japan, eating and drinking etiquette on trains depends largely on the type of train and seating layout.
Regular Commuter Trains (e.g. Yamanote Line)
Eating is generally not recommended on regular commuter trains such as the Yamanote Line, which mainly use long seats (bench-style seating). While there is no strict rule prohibiting food, eating on these trains is considered poor manners, especially during busy hours.
You may occasionally see people eating or drinking, but this behavior is not very welcome. Non-alcoholic drinks are generally acceptable, while drinking alcohol—though sometimes seen—is also considered inappropriate.
Long Seats vs. Cross Seats
- Long seats: Eating is discouraged
- Cross seats (facing seats): Eating is generally acceptable, especially on longer journeys
As a rough guideline, if the train has cross seating and is designed for longer-distance travel, eating is usually fine.
Shinkansen and Limited Express Trains
Eating and drinking are fully permitted on Shinkansen and limited express trains. In fact, enjoying ekiben on board is part of the experience.
On weekday evenings, it’s common to see people in business suits relaxing with canned beer after work. Seats on these trains are also rotatable, allowing families and groups to face each other comfortably while eating.
Buy Food and Drinks Before Boarding
Despite their popularity, ekiben are rarely sold on trains anymore.
In Japan, in-train sales have been decreasing as shops inside station ticket gates—known as “ekinaka”—have expanded. In the past, staff walked through trains pushing carts and selling food and drinks, including ekiben.
Today, this service has disappeared entirely on the Tokaido Shinkansen. However, Tohoku, Hokuriku, and Joetsu Shinkansen lines still offer limited in-train sales, where you can buy items like coffee, snacks, and bread.
To enjoy ekiben, it’s best to purchase your food before boarding.
Where to Buy Ekiben at Major Stations
Tokyo Station
Ekiben-ya Matsuri, located inside the JR ticket gates, offers more than 150 varieties of famous ekiben from all over Japan. It becomes very crowded in the morning, so if you have a specific ekiben in mind, it’s best to buy it early.
Shinjuku Station
Ekiben-ya Itadaki is located inside the South Ticket Gate. Although Shinjuku Station does not serve Shinkansen lines, it is a major departure point for limited express trains heading to destinations such as Mt. Fuji, making this shop convenient for travelers.
Shinagawa Station
Inside the ticket gates of regular train lines like the Yamanote Line is Ecute Shinagawa, a commercial area filled with bento shops, rice balls, prepared foods, and sweets.
While there are also shops inside the Tokaido Shinkansen gates, they are smaller, so buying your ekiben at Ecute Shinagawa is highly recommended.
https://www.ecute.jp/floor_guide/floormap_shinagawa_en.pdf
Omiya Station
Omiya Station is a convenient transfer point for travelers heading to Kanazawa, Nagano, or the Tohoku region. Inside the ticket gates, you’ll find Ecute Omiya and Ekiben-ya Umaimon.
Some shops are small but offer eat-in spaces, making them a good option if you have extra time before departure.
https://www.ecute.jp/floor_guide/floormap_omiya_en.pdf
My Recommended Ekiben
Gyuniku (Beef) Domannaka
One of my all-time favorite ekiben is Yamagata Prefecture’s “Gyuniku Domannaka.” Sweet and savory seasoned beef is generously spread over a bed of rice.
This ekiben is perfect for those who want a hearty meal with plenty of rice and meat. It’s extremely popular and often sells out by the afternoon.
Toyama Masu no Sushi
If Gyuniku Domannaka represents the best of meat ekiben, Toyama Masu no Sushi is the pinnacle of fish-based ekiben.
Masu (trout) sushi is a local specialty of Toyama Prefecture and is said to have taken its current form during the Edo period (1603–1867). Seasoned trout is layered over vinegared rice and wrapped with bamboo grass in a wooden box.
The portion is quite large and may be too much for one person—but it’s perfect for sharing.
Touge no Kamameshi
One of the most iconic ekiben in Japan is Touge no Kamameshi, which originated at Yokokawa Station in Gunma Prefecture.
With a history of over 60 years, it remains extremely popular today. The dish features lightly seasoned rice topped with a variety of ingredients and is served in a ceramic pot.
This pot can be taken home and reused—and you can even cook rice in it, making it a memorable souvenir as well.