What Is the Shinsengumi?
Have you heard of the Shinsengumi, a group that was active during the late Edo period in Japan?
Many people outside Japan know them through manga, anime, and historical dramas, where they are often portrayed as dramatic, stylish warriors. Because of these adaptations, some people even wonder: Did the Shinsengumi really exist?
The answer is yes—they absolutely did.
In Japanese culture, there is a deep emotional attachment to those who lost beautifully. The more tragic and heroic their downfall, the more people remember them. In that sense, the Shinsengumi are clearly the losers of history—but paradoxically, their popularity today often surpasses that of the winners.
I’ve been a fan myself ever since I first learned about them. I even went on a “Shinsengumi pilgrimage,” visiting places connected to their lives. In this article, I’ll explain who they were, why they were defeated, and why they are still loved today, along with key places you can visit in Japan.
Who Were the Shinsengumi, Really?
You might imagine the Shinsengumi as an elite group of samurai—but in reality, they were not traditional samurai.
While some members were born into samurai families, social status was not a requirement. Many members came from farming backgrounds.
The leader, Isami Kondo, was born in the Tama area of present-day Tokyo and was not a legitimate samurai by birth. The core members, including Toshizo Hijikata, also came from Tama and were socially closer to farmers than warriors.
At the time, Japan had a dual power structure:
- The Shogun ruled from Edo (Tokyo)
- The Emperor resided in Kyoto
When the Shogun traveled to Kyoto, security became a major concern. To address this, a group called the Roshigumi was formed to maintain order. A faction that broke away from the Roshigumi later became the Shinsengumi.
As the power of the Edo Shogunate weakened, Kyoto fell into chaos due to movements aiming to overthrow it. The Shogunate entrusted security to the Aizu domain, known for its loyalty and bravery. The Aizu clan, in turn, officially employed the Shinsengumi as a police force in Kyoto.
What Did the Shinsengumi Do?
One of the most remarkable things about the Shinsengumi was how strictly organized and modern they were.
They operated under a harsh internal code known as the Kyokuchu Hatto (Rules of the Shinsengumi). Breaking these rules often meant forced seppuku. Numerous internal purges were carried out to maintain discipline—something that still shocks people today.
This strictness likely came from their non-samurai origins. They felt the need to prove themselves more than anyone else.
Their greatest achievement was the Ikedaya Incident (1864). The Shinsengumi uncovered a plot by anti-shogunate forces to burn Kyoto and kidnap the Emperor. They raided the Ikedaya Inn and successfully crushed the plan, instantly becoming famous—and feared.
Why Were the Shinsengumi Defeated?
The Shinsengumi defended Kyoto with their swords, just as their enemies did.
However, history was moving forward. Anti-shogunate forces gradually united and formed what would become the new Meiji government. Armed with modern rifles and Western-style tactics, they overwhelmed the Shogunate’s forces.
The Shinsengumi were eventually forced out of Kyoto. While retreating toward Aizu, Isami Kondo was captured and executed. Leadership then fell to Toshizo Hijikata, the vice-commander.
Hijikata continued fighting in Utsunomiya and Aizu, and later joined the remnants of the Shogunate in Hakodate, Hokkaido, where they attempted to establish a new government. The effort failed, and Hijikata was killed in battle.
The Shinsengumi were active for only about five years, yet their impact on Japanese history—and imagination—is enormous.
Were the Shinsengumi Good or Evil?
This is the question many people ask.
The answer is simple: it depends on perspective.
- To the Shogunate, they were heroes.
- To the new government, they were villains.
It’s true that many capable samurai who could have shaped the new era were killed by the Shinsengumi. But the same is true in reverse—the Shinsengumi themselves were victims of history.
The civil war at the end of the Edo period left deep scars, and its emotional legacy still lingers in modern Japan.
Places in Japan Related to the Shinsengumi
📍 Tokyo – Hino Area
Hino (Hijikata Toshizo’s birthplace)
Hijikata’s birthplace includes the Toshizo Hijikata Museum, operated by his descendants. Nearby Sekidenji Temple contains a gravesite associated with him.
Takahata Fudo Kongoji Temple
The Hijikata family temple. A bronze statue of Toshizo stands on the grounds, and related historical materials are displayed.
📍 Kyoto
Yagi Residence (Mibu)
The first headquarters of the Shinsengumi. The surrounding area is filled with Shinsengumi-related sites.
Ikedaya Incident Site
Today, only a stone monument remains. The location is now a tavern themed around the Shinsengumi and the famous incident.
📍 Hakodate (Hokkaido)
Goryokaku Fort
The site of Hijikata Toshizo’s final battle. Although the exact location of his body is unknown, a bronze statue stands in Goryokaku Park.
Why Does Isami Kondo Have Five Graves?
After his execution, Isami Kondo’s head disappeared, and its whereabouts remain unknown. Because of this, five different gravesites exist across Japan.
I visited all five—it wasn’t easy due to their locations. If you’re interested, visiting even one is meaningful.
- Ryugenji Temple (Chofu, Tokyo) – His hometown temple
- Itabashi Station East Exit (Tokyo) – Execution site, memorial by Shinpachi Nagakura
- Tenneiji Temple (Aizuwakamatsu, Fukushima) – Said to contain part of his remains
- Koukokuji Temple (Yonezawa, Yamagata)
- Hozoji Temple (Okazaki, Aichi) – Believed to house his head
Final Tip for Travelers
If you’re planning a Shinsengumi pilgrimage, I highly recommend reading related books or watching historical dramas beforehand. Knowing their story makes every site far more powerful.